The recent news reports of the giant 20 Foot crocodile caught in the Agusan Marshland in Mindanao brought worldwide attention to the plight of local crocodiles.

http://news.yahoo.com/giant-crocodile-captured-alive-philippines-134625838.html

Monsters of this size ( over 2,000 lbs ) are very rare around the world and especially in the Philippines, where human population has encroached on the habitat of the crocodiles. It was apparent that this large specimen had been running rampant with the local inhabitants and their livestock. The locals believe that another larger crocodile is still out in the wild and has been targeted to be trapped. The local authorities have vowed to keep this beast, called Lolong, alive and show it to the public as part of an ecotourism park.

We just hope that the Mayor of this small town in Bunawan, Agusan will safeguard and protect this magnificent specimen for the general public to see and be marveled at by the next generation. With the proper education and implementation, these crocodiles can be preserved and can co-exist with humans.

It’s 6 in the morning and a pall of smoke is covering the river and our cameras as well. Upon closer inspection, it is a pervading mist that carpets the air and it looks thick like soup.  We get into our boat and we cut through the mist and the river slowly reveals itself.  Thick jungle on either side of the banks gives way to towering tropical hardwood trees, fallen logs, and overhanging tree limbs and branches. Every minute removed from the mist, we see something different in the river. We see white shadows like sentinels guarding certain points in the bank and they turn out to be White Egrets getting ready to fish.

The boat slows down and our guide quietly motions to an area near the mud bank. Coming to a crawl, our boatman manoeuvres carefully to what looks like a log with black holes on its side. As quickly as we see it, it disappears under the water with barely a wake. A quick tug at my shirt and I’m directed to look at the other side of the river. Deja vu!  I’ve seen this before in an episode of NatGeo Adventure about the Zambezi River in Africa. This log has an open mouth with an impressive row of teeth; it’s an estuarine crocodile or a copper croc as one local calls it, basking in the morning sun. Ten feet of solidity with luminescent eyes gazing at our boat, the croc is staying long enough for me to get a decent shot with my camera. Boy, I hope my settings are all correct as I rattle off multiple shots in quick succession hoping to get the Money shot. The croc heard my camera clicking and slides into the water. We move on down the river and we see a clearing in the forest and 2 figures appear on top of a dead tree -- a mating pair of Pied Hornbills squawking and bobbing to their hearts content.  Eight kinds of hornbills inhabit this area and I catch glimpses of them flying in tandem across the river with their signature squawk. Right next to them are another pair of Storm Stork, which our guide tells me is one of the top 5 rare birds in this area. The large birds with a balding head and spindly legs remind me of 2 old-timers hanging out in a bar having a beer.

Onto another break in the forest and I hear a “whoosh” whistle by the boat. We know it’s something big that flew past us but it was too fast and headed towards the thick canopy. Patiently, we wait and stand our ground but I have this eerie feeling that something is watching our every move.  Our patience is rewarded; a White Bellied Fish Eagle sits majestically on a large Fig Tree surveying its kingdom.  Not once did it look at us, but the eagle gave us a profile showing off his regal beak as if to say this is my photogenic side. This eagle gave me the privilege to be in his royal presence.  I willingly oblige and take several shots of His Airness; I feel like a bird paparazzi making sure I had the TMZ shot.  Heard but not seen were the bearded pig, babblers, barbets, mynas and the rhino hornbill.  We have just passed the first hour of our boat ride; this is already wildlife overload. Here we are, with 2 more days to go and we haven’t seen the monkeys, large primates and elephants just yet.

Where is this wildlife reserve, you might wonder? It is not in the deep jungles of the Congo, or out in the mighty Amazon River. It’s not even somewhere closer like the Brahmaputra in India or even the Mekong River in Indo-China.  We are in Sabah, Malaysia, this “Land below the Wind” where typhoons never tread. A mere 2 hours by plane from Manila, with no visa required, will get you to the mighty Kinabatagan River. Located in the eastern section of Sabah in the Sandakan District, the longest river in Sabah winds and snakes its way for 560 kms starting from the eastern Witti Mountain Range and flows into the Sulu Sea.  Kinabatagan River means Chinese River in Malay denoting the early Chinese traders who went up this river in the 13^th century to trade with the Orang Sungei (River people) for birds nest, rhino horns, elephant ivory and exotic lumber. Today, tourists are attracted to the riches of diverse landscapes along the river from limestone caves, dipterocarp forests, riverine forests, freshwater swamps, oxbow lakes and mangrove swamps. The World Wildlife Fund (WWF) states that this area is one of only two known places on Earth where 10 primate species can be found. Some of these include the Orang Utan, the Proboscis Monkey, Macaques, Maroon langur and Bornean gibbon, most of which are endemic to Borneo. Bird lovers will find the bird watching incredible: all 8 of Borneo's hornbill species are seen regularly. Of the 200 other species of birds recorded in the area, eight of these are of Malaysia's threatened bird species. The large mammals like the Borneo Pygmy Elephant, Sumatran Rhino, Malaysian Sun Bear, Barking Deer and Clouded Leopard are on the must see list but are harder to find.  My Lonely Planet and Rough Guides Adventure Books rate the wildlife viewing in the Kinabatagan as a “Must See” destination in the world of adventure travel.  Just look at these numbers: 15,000 species of flowering plants, 3000 species of trees, 220 land mammals, 200 species of birds and 10 primates all found in this rich ecosystem of biodiversity.  The wildlife in the Kinabatagan is acknowledged by experts to be the most varied and easily accessible in Southeast Asia

I’m surprised at how smooth the water is on the river. It’s so flat, I could have tried barefoot skiing with no problem at all. It’s late in the afternoon and we venture upriver deeper into the jungle. Tipped by his fellow-guide, our guide Patrick wanted to check an area where he had seen a family of 50 Borneo Pygmy Elephants that feed and drink together up and down the river before. The herd was not seen here for at least a month since the heavy rains swelled the banks of the river. Nearly an hour later, the light is quickly fading and we have yet to find the herd.  Then, we see another boat parked by the side of the river and curiously, we approach it. There he is, one young adult male quietly feeding on the long grass minding his business. We inch up to at least 20 feet, feeling the excitement and the rush of being so close to a wild elephant.  His trunk flicking the grass, ears flapping and tail wagging in unison got me feverishly clicking my camera and video cam all at once. We move on and we see a apair almost submerged with their trunks acting like a snorkel.  Peeking into a small tributary, we see another group of four and then we hear more commotion within the forest canopy. The distinctive trumpeting sound resonates up the river. We’ve hit the mother lode, an elephant picnic!  Female, male, big, small, with tusks or none, all shapes and sizes are represented. Behind all the feeding adults, we notice a small baby hanging on to the every move of Mom’s tail.  They seem to all be so preoccupied in eating and drinking that nothing seems to bother them. It is estimated that an average adult elephant can eat up to 300 pounds of vegetation and forage up to 20 hours per day to support their bulk and appetite. I am surprised at how docile they are, with human-like sensitivity. I witness a pair helping each other climb the riverbank with their trunks and thanking each other with a soft pat on their heads. You can’t see this kind of natural interaction in any zoo. We feel so blessed to see free elephants displaying their true nature.

My animal bucket list for the Kinabatagan is almost complete and I’m just missing the stars of the show, the Orangutan & Proboscis Monkey. It’s starting to get dark and this is the best time to look for the monkeys as they go near the river to sleep in the trees for protection.   Finally, we come across 3 fur balls in one tree with their backsides to us, and long white tails hanging. It’s our first glimpse of the famed monkey and the next tree finally reveals a large male. Boy, their noble nose is big & plump and with a potbelly to match, I stopped wondering why they’re called Orang Belanda or Dutchman. This proboscis monkey could have come from a Dutch bar and you couldn’t tell the difference.  We are graced with their typical signature “yelp” sound and their penchant for making long jumps. Patrick excitedly tells us to look up further to the top of the biggest tree and check the shadowy figures.  He claims that it’s a Silver Leaf Langur and even more rare Albino Langur next to each other. I can hardly see them but I catch the distinct silhouette of a monkeys’ Mohawk hair and beard surrounding its face.  That was a good bonus for us but we still needed to see a wild orang-utan. We check a promising area that indicates recent orang-utan activity. Unfortunately, that is as close as we got to seeing one, since we had to turn back because of fading light. The end of the day was punctuated by a cloud bank shaped like an elephants head against the dusk sky. What a way to finish this glorious journey!

A larger question now has to be answered.  Why should we even care or go to the Kinabatagan River? One can say that we can just go to the zoo and see the same animals without all the hassles. That answer captures the spirit of modern urban life, where we are conditioned for convenience. The disconnect we have to nature, where we worry more about the hassle of getting there. For me, the Kinabatagan represents a bygone era of exploration when the Congo, the Amazon and the Nile were rivers of mystery and intrepid adventurers like David Livingstone & Richard Burton discovered them.  It is a rare opportunity to visit and experience what the jungles of Asia were like a hundred years ago. There is nothing like the high of getting close to a wild animal and marvel at its majesty and simplicity. Something magical happens, and you feel like a boy in a candy shop with too many sweets to choose from. 

Storm clouds are gathering on the horizon, habitat loss due to heavy logging and encroachment of palm oil plantations are the gravest threat to this region and its animals. It would be a tragedy if we allow a treasure like the Kinabatagan to be lost. The best and probably the only way to preserve this unique area is to view it as tourists and be witnesses to its glory and leave a lasting legacy for our children. On the morning we left our resort, a wild boar visited us and went straight to a palm oil plantation eating loads of palm oil fruit. This is poetic justice and a fitting end to our adventure.  Signing off till the next adventure...will check in from the crystal clear waters of Papua New Guinea. 

Here is our take on the best climbs & treks of the mountains in the Philippines. This is by no means a definitive list and should only be regarded as a rough guide. We submitted this article to Lonely Planet Philippines.

Sentimental Favorite : Mt. Anacuao

Location:  Dinalugan, Aurora Province

Why Go:  This Mountain is challenging to climb with a Level 3 rating and is part of the fabled Sierra Madre range.  It is relatively easy to get to from Manila as compared to other mountains in the Sierra Madres. Its summit is unique in that you need to go through a cave to reach the peak at 1,600 meters. The base camp is situated in a clearing that offers unfettered views of Casiguran Sound & San Ildefonso Peninsula. It has pristine forests, numerous birdlife like Rufous Hornbills and crystal clear running water that’s safe to drink. It is remote and there are few people that climb this mountain. My first Level 3 climb and its pristine state make Anacuao a sentimental favourite for me.

Best Time: The best time to climb is during the summer period.

How to Get There:  From Manila, you can take a Genesis Bus direct to Baler, Aurora. From Aurora, you can take a local bus that plies the route to Dinalugan Town. Get dropped off at the town hall where you can arrange for the climb with the local authorities.

Best Kept Secret:  Mt. Guiting Guiting

Location:  Sibuyan Island, Romblon Province

Why Go: One of the top 3 hardest climbs in the Philippines along with Mt. Halcon & Mt. Mantalingajan. G2 as it is fondly called, has a jagged knife edge ridge and rock formations that you will have to negotiate to get to the summit at 2,058 meters. Hard core climbers are attracted to this mountain because of its technical climb and the breathtaking views of the Sibuyan Sea and even Mt. Mayon on a clear day. The island of Sibuyan itself has beautiful beaches, waterfalls, clean rivers and endemic flora and fauna.

Best Time: The best time to climb is during the summer period.

How to Get There:  From Manila, you need to get to Batangas Pier and take a Montenegro Lines that offers daily trips to Romblon. You will need to take a local boat to Magdiwang Port in the island of Sibuyan. Take a tricycle or jeep to the DENR ranger station to register for your climb.

Most Hard Core:  Mt. Mantalingajan

Location:  Rizal, Southern Palawan

Why Go: Considered probably the most difficult climb in the Philippines, it will take at least 5 days to climb this peak. The trails are steep, narrow and nonexistent, climb over boulders, walk on the canopy of dwarf trees and crawl on sharp rocks to get to the summit at 2,086 meters. The ever present danger of malaria carrying mosquitoes and leeches await only the toughest of climbers to assault this forbidding mountain. Despite its hard core nature, there are fascinating interactions with the local Tau’t Bato (People of the Stone) and is considered as a biodiversity hotspot for endemic Palawan Birds. This area has been recently gazetted as a protected national park

Best Time: The best time to climb is during the summer period. Rainy season is a definite no go on this mountain.

How to Get There:  From Manila, take a plane or boat to Puerto Princesa. From there, take a bus to Rizal town that will take about 6 hours. From Rizal, take a jeep to Barangay Ransang which is the jump off point for the climb.

Best for Beginners:  Mt. Maculot

Location:  Cuenca, Batangas

Why Go:  Maculot is a popular dayhike destination for all kinds of climbers due to its accessibility and its easy trail. This mountain is so popular during the summer months that a sari sari store is set up at the campsite to offer food & drinks to hikers. There is a good balance of easy trail and also some challenging parts when you reach the rockies summit at 830 meters. The payoff here is the beautiful view of the entire Taal Lake from one side and the Mountains of Makiling and even Mt. Halcon in Mindoro on a clear day from the other side.

Best Time: The best time to climb is during the summer period.

How to Get There:  From Manila, take a bus to Lipa City, Batangas. From Lipa, you take a jeep to Poblacion town then take a tricycle to the barangay outpost where you register for your climb.

Most Romantic:  Mt. Pulag

Location:  Ambageg, Benguet Province

Why Go:  Mt. Pulag is the highest point in Luzon Island at 2,922 meters and is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the country. Fabled views of the “sea of clouds”, tall neighbouring peaks and dwarf bamboo forest has been given the name of “playground of the gods” by the native tribes. The Ambageg trail starts at a high elevation and is quite easy to get to the summit. The coldness of the weather amid the beautiful pine trees and montane forests while encountering the local hill tribes along the way is a great treat for most climbers. Couples wanting to have a different shared experience should go to Pulag.

Best Time: The best time to climb is during the summer period. January to March is fine but very chilly and can go as low as freezing.

How to Get There:  From Manila, take a Victory Liner to Baguio City. From there, take a jeepney to Ambageg and be brought to the Ranger Station where you will register for your climb.

Most Scenic:  Mt. Pinatubo

Location:  Capas, Tarlac

Why Go:  The volcanic eruption felt around the world, the infamous Mt. Pinatubo has become a premier destination for trekkers in the Philippines. The landscape in the crater can be described as “moon like” and “out of this world” because of the barren and desolate surroundings in the aftermath of the eruption. Take a 4x4 jeep along endless volcanic sand and lahar towers, then trek along mineral covered rocks with varying colours and finally reaching the crater to take a swim in its reddish sulphuric waters. The very different landscape compared to most mountains in the Philippines makes Pinatubo the most scenic.

Best Time: Fine most of the year except for the rainy season as there might be flash floods.

How to Get There:  From Manila, take the NLEX to the very end and exit Mabalacat, Pampanga. Go to Macarthur Highway to Capas, Tarlac and drop off at Barangay Sta. Juliana.

Year Round Favorite:  Mt. Cristobal

Location:  San Pablo, Laguna

Why Go:  Cristobal is the sister peak of Mt. Banahaw and is sometimes referred to as the Devil Mountain because of local spirits that supposedly haunts the trail. The mystique of the spirits, the straightforward and clean trails, pristine forests, a splendid array of flora and fauna and a crater at the top makes Critobal as favourite climb for mountaineers. It is tall enough at 1,470 meters that it can be climbed as a full day hike or an overnite camping trip. Its proximity to Manila and its reputation as a real mountain trek makes Cristobal a year round favourite for climbers.

Best Time: Fine most of the year except for the rainy season as there might be flash floods.

How to Get There:  From Manila, take a bus to San Pablo City via Lucena or JAM lines. At San Pablo, you can rent a jeepney to Barangay Kinabuhayan where you can get guides to take you to the mountain.